The factory line from Audi has a pressure valve in to ease engagement. This valve wears out our clutches faster as engagement is over a longer period of time regardless of driver finesse and also KILLS pedal feel. USP sells a great stainless line replacement. LinkClutch feel is awesome with the line.
Below is a DIY to minimize master fluid loss, you can do it in the reverse order and start on the bottom.
Huge shout out to my good friend Christian @ AZ Euros in Tempe, AZ for giving me some lift time last night and aiding in the install. http://azeuros.com/
Pressure valve and installed line
First pop the hood, remove the rubber seal on the firewall and the cowl. The slave line hooks into the master right to the right of the booster underneath then ecu’s main harness. This area is tight. Remove the washer bottle pour induct from the drivers side fender, next remove the ecu cover. Remove the metal guard around the master reservoir.
Remove the ecu and fuse tray (unbolt the hot 30 redwire- everything is plastic in the tray so it’ll be just fine) and take out the 4 bolts to allowing you to move the lower part of the tray around. You wont be able to remove it completely with the wiper trans still in the way, but itll give you alot more room. You may have a boost line routed here if you have a boost gauge.
Now you have just about as much room as you are going to get- get the replacement line ready. Put a vacuum cap on the thicker fitting end to limit fluid loss. The thinner end will hook into the master.
Place alot of paper towels underneath the slave hook up to capture the fluid you lose. Pop the clip off the existing line, be gentle and it’ll slide to the top and remain on the hook up. Slide out the existing line and slide in the thinner end of the new stainless line. Once the line is flush push the clip back down.
The hard piped line is extremely difficult to fish out, I cut it in half where it comes through the body and then pulled out the remainder from behind the firewall with vice grips. We fooled around for 15 mins trying to get it out without cutting. We also deleted the loop around on the side of the transmission.
We routed the new line through the drivers side cowl drain, removing the rubber grommet. This is wayyyy easier then routing it through the OEM hole and lines up with the slave an shielding perfectly.
This exits underneath the heat shied by the steering column, pop the fastener off and pull back the heat shielding and pull the line through.
Hook it into the slave and bleed the clutch. I used a power bleeder, if you dont have one gravity bleed it on a level surface and then pump it up and bleed until no air comes out.
All buttoned up! Reinstall all the remove components in reverse order. minus the clutch lines.
Make sure to spray degrease to clean and wash in the cowl were the brake fluid leaked.