B5 – Motor Pull Guide

  B5, DIY

Hi everyone,

So I pulled the motor on my B5 S4 early this summer and had gone through a lot of the material online to get ready for it, and there was nothing really complete, every place was missing bits and pieces.
So I thought that while pulling my motor I would have a checklist and make notes at each step. The following document is what I came up with. Being an engineer I like every step listed with the appropriate amount of detail, and I thought this would be helpful for anyone pulling the motor for the first time.

Keep in mind, this is a how-to for pulling the motor and trans together, as I thought it would be easier that way.

Read this whole thing through before you pull the motor so you can understand what you need to do.
I also recommend having someone to help you out. I pulled mine by myself, aside from having a friend help when removing and installing the exhaust, pulling the motor and trans out, and pushing it back in.

Lastly, if you have any corrections, or things to add, please let me know and I will update the list.

B5 S4 Motor + Trans Pull How-To:

Take pictures along the way for reassembly!
Bag all bolts and hardware as it is removed and label the bags with a sharpie!

Parts needed:
1) 1 Gallon of G12 or G13 coolant and 1 Gallon of water (preferably distilled)
2) Oil and oil filter
3) Timing belt kit (if replacing timing belt and related items)
4) Oil cooler gasket (good idea to replace this, the oil cooler will be removed if you don’t disconnect A/C lines to A/C pump)
5) Power Steering fluid (OEM Part #: G004000M2)

Tools needed:
1) Jack and (preferably 4) jack stands
2) Engine hoist (and load leveler to make it much easier)
3) Metric socket set
4) Torx drivers up to T-45
5) Triple square drivers (for axle bolts)
6) Flathead and Philips-head screwdrivers
7) Shop rags and paper towel
8) For timing belt:
a. Cam Lock bar
b. Crank lock pin

Before lifting car up:
1) Disconnect Ground, Positive, and Power Supply Cable
2) Loosen axle/driveshaft bolts from center of the wheel hub while car is on the ground (will have to take off center caps of wheels and lower car back down to loosen the axle/driveshaft)
3) Remove all plastic covers in engine bay and air intake hose
4) Remove exhaust and put it off to the side
5) Remove headlights
6) Remove bumper, make sure to clamp off headlight washer hose, and disconnect fog light cables
7) Remove intercooler shrouds
8) Remove 2 fasteners holding on power steering cooling line and temp sensor bracket
9) Remove air dam (plastic guards) from left and right side of the condenser
10) Take out bolts that hold in condenser cooling fan. Temporarily hang fan off to the side with tie wrap
11) Disconnect harness from A/C Pressure switch.
12) Attach bungee cord or tie wraps to hood hinge, swing condenser to the left and hang in place. (Install fender cover or something to protect fender).
13) Temporarily reinstall condenser fan
14) Drain coolant by removing lower coolant hose (use flathead to slide the metal clip out of locked position, and give the hose connection a good tug to get it off)
15) Mark lock carrier bolt location with paint pen or silver sharpie (Front and top bolts)
16) Remove all lock carrier bolts
17) Disconnect electrical plugs next to power steering fluid reservoir and ABS pump (Take a pic)
18) Remove hood latch cable
19) Remove radiator support
20) Drain Oil
21) Remove fan (Left hand thread, use a spanner to hold the fan in place while loosening it, or use a long allen wrench or flathead screwdriver to wedge it in place)
22) Remove serpentine belt by releasing tensioner with ratchet (Mark direction on belt)
23) Remove coolant reservoir
24) Remove airbox and Y-pipe
25) Remove fuel/evap lines
26) Remove boost gauge vacuum line. (if you have one)
27) Remove small vacuum-canister line going to the driver’s side fender. On M-box cars there’s a squeeze-release fitting adjacent to the ABS pump.
28) Remove intercoolers and hoses
29) Feed positive battery cable through bulkhead
30) Remove PS hoses, one hardline in the rear running parallel to the firewall and another to the engine from the reservoir
31) Take off windshield wiper and plenum cover
32) Remove ECU and unplug the harness from deep inside the ECU box (little multi-colored connectors), flop it on top of the engine
33) Remove ground connection under ECU harness
34) Take note of heat shield around speed sensor wiring. (Take pic) Then remove heat shield and remove plastic bracket.

Lift car up:
35) Remove positive battery cable from alternator and the cable bracket
36) Remove ground cable from frame member
37) Remove torque support
38) Remove bolts from coolant tube on front of block
39) Remove control module for coolant fan, hang off to the side with tie wraps
40) Remove heat shield from axles
41) Disconnect DPs from exhaust, and remove support bolts (If you did not remove the exhaust earlier on)
42) Mark Motor mount holes on the underside with Sharpie
43) Unbolt motor mounts (One 13mm per side)
44) Unbolt Trans mounts (Two 13mm per side)
45) Remove oil cooler hoses, oil filter and oil cooler
46) Remove AC compressor and swing to the side (2 bolts front, and one in the back, 13mm)
47) Go inside the car remove the shift knob, shifter surround and boot, and remove the plastic cover over the shifter linkage.
48) Take a picture and mark both shifter bolt locations and detach shifter (Just the two bolts holding the rods onto the shifter). The rubber boot also needs to be pushed out of the shifter box.
a. Watch out for clutch fluid line by linkage
49) Make sure all wire connectors are detached from firewall
50) Loosen wire looms attached to frame-rail
51) Detach heater core hoses in between firewalls covered by an accordion shaped sheath.
52) Disconnect brake booster hose by pulling straight out of the grommet in the secondary firewall.
53) Remove the drive shaft heat shield (Four 10mm bolts)
54) Remove the transmission tail cover. (2 Torx bolts, Be careful not to strip these!)
55) Remove driveshaft from transmission. Jam a screwdriver in the center U-joint to prevent the DS from rotation. Use a long extension and be careful not to strip these!
56) Unbolt rear driveshaft
57) Remove Front axles (If you have a seconds pair of hands to turn the steering wheel during this, it makes it a lot easier)
58) Attach engine hoist to the top of the engine. (There is a place to hook onto on each of the cylinder heads)

Lift engine up and out a few inches:
59) When removing the engine and transmission you will need to guide the transmission to lift and support it over the cross member. When you start to remove the engine and transmission be careful not to break anything you may have forgotten to disconnect. You will probably spend a lot of time looking around to check clearances. Be especially careful of items behind the motor that can get crushed between the transmission and the tunnel.
60) Remove clutch slave cylinder. (Take a pic) When the motor is about a 5-10inches forward you can reach back and disconnect the slave cylinder (it is bolted in place). It is attached with a hard line that can kink or break, so be careful when moving the motor/trans out and when moving the slave around.
61) Fish heater core hoses out
62) Pull motor out all the way

Now you can do whatever you planned on doing while the engine is out. I highly recommend cleaning out the engine bay while it’s empty, and then follow the reinstall instructions.

63) Install is the exact opposite of the removal process, some key points are listed below:
64) Putting in the clutch slave is a PITA, lube the rubber portion that seals to the tranny. Also, be sure to put it in as the engine is going in, not after it’s settled.
65) One person should be UNDER the engine, guiding the shifter shafts into the rubber grommets. (Lube the shafts a bit! So they go in easily)
66) Make sure motor mounts are in the correct holes!
67) Be mindful of the orientation of the engine/trans so it lines up straight.
68) Check for pinched wires and hoses
69) Don’t forget the grease for the CV’s!
70) Do timing belt kit install (if needed). Follow instructions below.
71) Fill up with fresh oil and coolant!
72) Disconnect ignition connections on top of airbox and turn key in ignition to cycle oil for 5 min after install.

Timing Belt:
1) Remove timing belt covers
a. DS has three 5mm allens, PS has two 5mm allens, Center has 2 clips
2) Turn crank to TDC (Using reference mark provided, tick mark on pulley and arrow on plastic piece behind pulley)
a. When you get the mark lined up on the crank pulley take a look at the wing like brackets on the outside of the cam sprockets. If the larger holes are OUTBOARD as in this picture you are not at TDC and the cam lock bar will not fit on this way.
b. If this is the case, rotate another cycle and line the mark up again.
3) Install cam lock bar
4) Mark timing belt and cam pulley with whiteout
5) Install crank lock pin on DS of engine (Have to remove black plastic plug held in by offset small bolt. Make sure o-ring is removed before screwing in lock pin)
6) Mark harmonic balancer so you know which way it goes, Remove it
7) Remove lower round TB cover with two 10mm bolts
8) Remove serpentine/accessory belt tensioner (Three 6mm allen bolts and one 5mm bolt)
9) Release tension on timing belt by putting allen driver through hole in the tensioner and compress the piston. Once it’s compressed enough lock it in place with coat hanger or similar item)
10) Remove timing belt (Mark new timing belt in same spots to make sure nothing is off when reinstalling)
11) Remove timing belt tensioner pulley
12) Remove timing belt idler pulley
13) Loosen dipstick tube (One 10mm bolt)
14) Remove pulley on PS Pump (top center silver pulley held on by three 6mm allen head bolts)
15) Loosen mounting bracket for power steering pump (Two 6mm allen bolts on the front, one vertically on the top by the Throttle body and F-hose)
16) Remove water pump (Two 10mm nuts and Nine 10mm bolts)
17) Clean gasket surface
18) Remove thermostat housing (to the left of the water pump) and remove thermostat and o-ring

Timing Belt Reinstall:
19) Replace thermostat and o-ring
20) With gasket goop re-install new water pump with new gasket
21) Reinstall 3 screw on power steering pump
22) Reinstall PS pump pulley
23) Reinstall new TB tensioner nad pulley
24) Install new timing belt
a. It’s important to release the pulleys from the cams to install the belt correctly. It’s not difficult or dangerous to do this. You need a 2 arm puller, or the Audi puller. Loosen the cam pulley bolts a bit with the cam bar in place. Back the bolts out 2 turns and then pop the pulleys off. It will pop quite dramatically. The pulley will now be free to turn on the end of the cam, and this will allow you to install the belt 100% correctly. At this point, you release the tensioner and then you tighten the cam pulley bolts to 55 Nm.
25) Reinstall serpentine belt idler pulley
26) Reinstall lower round TB cover
27) Reinstall harmonic balancer on crank
28) Remove crank locking pin
29) Double check timing by cranking through 2 full revolutions
30) Reinstall center, then PS, then DS TB covers
31) Reinstall serpentine belt tensioner with pin still in place
32) Reinstall intake pressure lines and connect all intake plumbing
33) Install new serpentine belt, release tension from tensioner
34) Reinstall fan (remember left hand thread)
35) Reinstall rest of the front end
36) Mix a 50/50 coolant solution and fill coolant. You will have to run the car and refill to get it to the correct level. You may also have to burp or bleed the system by sliding back one of the heater core hoses to release air.

• Crush washers… the nomenclature is pretty obvious: Tweak them till you feel them tighten and then crush a bit. Some of the fittings on the turbos are impossible to get to with the engine in, so double, triple and quadruple check all this stuff. Same goes for the short compressor outlet hoses: I tighten the worm-clamps till I see the outlying band of the clamp tweak a bit. Also, ensure the bolt in the worm-clamps face downward so they can be accessed from under the car if a problem ever arises.
• If you strip an allen bolt, try a torx of similar size… it’ll probably work. If not, you can probably pound a torx of the next size on and it’ll work, once.
• The turbo to manifold bolts are notorious for stripping. If trying the above fails you, an angle grinder is your best friend. Let the sparks fly! Just grind the head off the bolt and it’ll come right off.
• Flush heater core while engine is out, it’s easy and will prevent your new coolant from getting dirty when you reinstall the engine.
• Coolant o-rings, get them wet and they will slip on easy. Don’t hammer them!
• Pour oil in turbos after connecting oil return line, this will help prime them with oil w

Torque Specs:
• Idler Wheel: 45 Nm
• Thermostat Housing: 10 Nm
• TB Backing Cover (attaches to the block, behind the TB): 10 Nm
• Toothed Belt Tensioning Roller: 20 Nm
• Water Pump: 10 Nm
• Central Bolt to crankshaft: 200 Nm + 180 °
o Always replace the center bolt with a new one.
o The additional 1/2-turn (180) can also be tightened in two 1/4-turn (90) steps.
• Snub Mount bolts: 25 Nm
• Cam sprockets to cams: 55 Nm
o Do this with the cam lock bar on
• Pulley to crankshaft (8 bolts): 20 Nm
o Be sure to put the plastic cover with the TDC mark on first, it’s very annoying to remove/torque those 8 bolts twice
• Toothed belt tensioning element: 10 Nm
• Mechanical fan pulley bracket to block: 25 Nm (6mm allen), 10 Nm(5mm allen)
• P.S. Pulley to bracket: 25 Nm
o Use a 9mm allen and put it in the center hole to hold the bracket still
• Toothed belt sprocket to camshaft: 55 Nm
• Toothed Belt Idler Wheel: 45 Nm
• Toothed belt tensioning roller: 20 Nm
• Toothed belt tensioning element: 10 Nm
• Vibration Damper (Crank Pulley): 25 Nm
• Coolant Pump (Water Pump): 10 Nm
• Thermostat Housing Bolts: 10 Nm
• Toothed Belt Tensioner Relay (pivot arm): 20 Nm
• Pre-Tension Timing Belt Roller (counter clock): 15 Nm
• Power Steering Pulley Bolts: 25 Nm
• Power Steering Pump housing bolts: 25 Nm
• Ribbed Belt Tensioner bolt: 55 Nm
• Viscous Fan Coupler to engine long bolts (2X): 25 Nm
• Viscous Fan (attach to coupler): 10 Nm
• Top Bleeder Screw: 20 Nm
• Condenser to radiator: 10 Nm
• Cooling lines to radiator: 10 Nm
• Pressurizing fan to radiator: 10 Nm
• Impact Absorber (Lock Carrier): 45 Nm
• Lock Carrier (Top Bolts): 10 Nm
• Bumper Bolts: 23 Nm
• Accessory belt tensioner: 45 Nm
• Fender core support bolts (4 bolts): 10 Nm
• Core support to frame (7 bolts): 45 Nm
• Bumper bolts (by the fog lights): 23 Nm


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.